Valparaiso’s amazing StreetArt on this self-guided walk

Intro: please note that this post is from 2015. Some of the street art will have disappeared, a lot more will have been added since. Street art evolves quickly, but this walk is still worth it to discover outstanding murals and quirky urban art along the fringes of Valparaiso’s tourist centre.

Recently our friend, Pete from Sydney, joined us for a 9-day visit in Chile . Since he’s also interested in street art, we decided to take him to Valparaíso, one of our favourite cities. But street art is only part of what makes Valpo (as the locals call it) so special. Somehow it’s just one of those cities in the world which you have to love – for its eclectic mix of old and new, its vibrant downtown and steep, sleepy hillsides, its unique funiculars, and its abundance of “almost fallen down, but not quite” structures…

We’ve published several StreetArt galleries from Valparaiso before and have been back a couple of times since. You see: this city has a hold on us! But I had a number of very nice surprises this time when I discovered new art work in places we had visited late last year [2014].

StreetArt in Valparaiso – even the rubbish trucks all have graffiti art on the sides :D

This post will be slightly different from my previous ones as I concentrate on one area only, which you can explore on foot. It’s an easy walk, with stunning vistas on a clear day, no climbing, only some steep downhill sections (which can be hard on the old knees too – but I promise, you’ll be distracted!). If you want to take your time with photographs, then plan on at least 1½ to 2 hours, allowing for a short rest along the way. Late morning is probably the best time for this tour, as many walls face east or are otherwise shaded in the afternoon (as you can see from my photos).

Google map excerpt of our StreetArt walk. The line marks our route, orange are real “hot spots”, the green parts offer more street art.

After Santiago we were all a little on the slow side, so I suggested we be lazy and share a taxi up the hill to one of my favourite street art galleries along Avenida Alemania. The taxi cost us roughly $5 – not a bad deal considering how steep it is to get up to Monte Alegre.

Take your time, be curious, look for hidden things, and enjoy yourself!

Once you arrive, make sure that you first walk around the small, triangular plaza and explore its side streets (eg Monte Alegre a little downhill) where you will find some outstanding murals! If you’re hungry, we recommend La Cocó Sangucheria Artesanal for their sumptuous vegetarian sandwiches.

Next, cross the bridge from where you can see a row of houses on the hill, almost every one set on top of its own retaining wall with colourful street art. It was here that I first discovered several art pieces which had not been there eight months before.

Valpo StreetArt on retaining walls along Calle Alemania. These walls extend much further and seem to all get slowly covered with street art. I discovered several pieces which had been added over the last 8 months.

Follow Avenida Alemania to the left (roughly north) as it winds along the hill. In several places it affords some stunning views across rusty tin roofs, out to the harbour of Valparaiso. And don’t forget to peek through gates or photograph some of the classic corrugated iron facades – all part of this unique city.

Street Art works along Avenida Alemania

Others are featured in our previous gallery, linked above.

Valparaiso StreetArt on Avenida Alemania: a hobo rests with his dog above a stylised view of Valpo.

Valparaiso StreetArt on Avenida Alemania: another ‘new’ piece on a retaining wall

Valpo StreetArt on a retaining wall along Calle Alemania, with a quote from Pablo Neruda (and his portrait)

Valparaiso StreetArt scene: women (colour matched) in front of graffiti, waiting for the bus

Once you reach Cerro Abajo with its small park, just past the Liceo Pedro Montt, it’s time to go downhill along Calle Cumming. But don’t miss the colourful art works below the park, down from the retaining wall. Cerro Abajo is the hill from where, once a year, fearless (or stupid?) mountain bikers race down the steep streets towards the city centre; this has become a famous event.

You’ll walk past Parque Cultural de Valparaíso (free access) in the converted old prison of the city. Next you’ll reach Cementerio #2 (main gates are unfortunately locked), where you keep to the right, downhill towards Calle Ecuador. Along this stretch you find a row of houses, each with art in very different styles.

Valparaiso StreetArt: how is this for variety? 4 adjoining walls covered in murals of very different styles – see my individual photos.

Further down along Ecuador it’s worthwhile to scout some of the side streets for more wall art. The lower section of Ecuador is where some of Valpo’s night life happens. You might even decide to stop here and have drink or a bite to eat. This is anyhow where our walk ends. When the bars and restaurants are closed their roller doors usually provide just another “canvas” for street art.

A fraction of the StreetArt to see downhill from Cerro Abajo.

Unusual 3D StreetArt on a retaining wall on top of Calle Cumming in Valparaiso.

Valparaiso StreetArt on top of Calle Cumming.

Valparaiso StreetArt on top of Calle Cumming (detail). Lovely contrast: street art woman facing an old-fashioned saint in a window next door.

StreetArt in Valparaiso, in a narrow lane off Calle Cumming, with humming birds and clown: “Today I paint myself some cheerfulness.”

StreetArt in Valparaiso: two, rather dark and somber, garage doors discovered off Calle Cumming

StreetArt in Valparaiso along Calle Cumming: beautifully painted end wall near Cementerio 2

StreetArt in Valparaiso: the first piece in this row of four. Japanese?

StreetArt in Valparaiso: the second piece in this row of four

StreetArt in Valparaiso: the third piece in this row of four.

StreetArt in Valparaiso: the fourth piece in this row of four.

StreetArt in Valparaiso, Calle Ecuador (upper section): 4 garage doors with 4 faces (on a rather plain house)

StreetArt scene in Valparaiso, Calle Ecuador: large cat mural on a building’s facade. You can see this house from afar, but to take a photo there’s always something in the way…

StreetArt in Valparaiso in a side street off Calle Ecuador: I like the style of this one, but don’t get its meaning

Street scene in Calle Ecuador: large mural on one building, amazing scene, depicting Valparaiso, on a side wall in a fenced off yard

StreetArt in Valparaiso on Calle Ecuador in a side yard: Valpo itself depicted in this mural. (I couldn’t get a better shot as it was fenced off.)

Street scene in Calle Ecuador (lower section): StreetArt on Sushi shop, colourful staircase, more art on neighbouring building

small StreetArt in Valparaiso on a street corner of Calle Ecuador: two female musicians

StreetArt in Valparaiso on Calle Ecuador, lower section: the sacrifice of my father

small StreetArt in Valparaiso on Calle Ecuador, lower section, with the often pictured typical trolley bus

The part of town described in this article is not covered by any of Valpo’s city tours. We published another gallery of 23 StreetArt photos which we took during our guided walking tour around Valparaíso. Plus previously we have published two other street art galleries from Valparaíso: this gallery and this gallery – all together around 100 photos!

This walking tour should give a good cross section of street art styles found in Valparaíso. If you would like to learn more about various styles of street art and graffiti I highly recommend this page by a small business in Valpo – they run street art tours in town. The part of town, which our tour covers, is quite safe. To see street art in outlaying suburbs (which can be a bit rough), and learn more about various styles and artists, you might want to join a group tour through the business linked above (we haven’t been on any of their tours, so we have no personal experience).

Which piece of wall art do you like the best? Please tell us in the ‘comments’ below!
For StreetArt Galleries from other parts of South America please visit our dedicated category with all posts.

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